Tobias Friedrich started taking underwater photos in 2007. Since then his images have been published in prestigious scuba diving magazines such as Sport Diver, Unterwasser, Tauchen, Scuba Diver, Through The Lens and many others. In 2018 he won the coveted Underwater Photographer of the Year competition. Tobias is always passionate for new challenges and up for new, creative ways in underwater photography. Below, find some of his best images taken with the SeaLife DC2000 and Tobias’ advice on how to compose and capture the best shot in various underwater shooting scenarios.
And keep in mind, with the DC2000, you don’t have to be a professional to get great results, simply follow these basic steps and you’ll capture some amazing photos.
Hawksbill Seaturtle
Elphinstone Reef, Egypt
One big advantage of compact cameras over big DSLR setups is that you can hold the camera easily into tiny spaces and still float above the reef to not disturb animals or touch corals. That close-up perspective was ideal to photograph the turtle while eating soft corals and not disturbing it. It was important to use the diffuser on the strobe to soften the light on the turtle and not to give it too hard of shadows.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon Flash, 0.5x Wide Angle Dome Lens
Settings: ISO 125, f/4, 1/100s
Dark-Shouldered Snake Eel
Malapascua, Philippines
Light is one of the most important things in underwater photography. In this case I used the spot light of the Sea Dragon 2100 Dual Beam Light to get a spot just right on the eel. To make the effect even more dramatic I had the light in my left hand and formed the light with my fingers to get a more narrow beam. With subject close to the ground it’s also important to get the cameras perspective as low as possible as well.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon 2100 Dual Beam, 0.5x Wide Angle Dome Lens
Settings: ISO 125, f/8, 1/320s
The Silfra Crack
Silfra, Iceland
If you are in a situation with great visibility or near large structures like rocks or reefs, it’s always a good idea to include a diver into the image so that the viewer is able to compare sizes of the natural surroundings to a human being. This photo was taken with a DC2000 and no light in Dive Mode with the new 0.5x Wide Angle Dome Lens. The water’s absolute clarity adds to the tremendous size and depth of the image.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, 0.5x Wide Angle Dome Lens
Settings: f/4, 1/30s, ISO400
School of Sharks
Fakarava, French Polynesia
Photographing sharks is easy when you know what to do. By taking a test shot and adjusting the camera to over or underexpose you can control the blue in the background. Afterwards focus on the ground or anything else in the same distance like the sharks, hold the shutter button half pressed and wait for the sharks to be in a nice position before you press the shutter completely. Removing the diffusor from the strobe helps the light to reach further through the water.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000
Settings: ISO125, f/4, 1/200s
Nudibranch
Malapascua Island, The Philippines
For this Nudibranch I used the DC-Series Super Macro Lens to be able to get closer to the subject and to have it bigger in the frame. Additionally I used the Sea Dragon 2100 Dual Beam Light from the very left side on spot function and also formed the light with my fingers to give the nudibranch just a touch of light. The blue and red background lights are coming from my DSLR, which I placed on the sandy bottom, while shooting with the DC2000 camera. It gave a nice additional effect.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon 2100 Dual Beam, DC-Series Super Macro Lens
Settings: ISO 400, f/1.8, 1/30s
Vibrant Corals
Elphinstone Reef, Red Sea, Egypt
If you want to get good colors in your images, you need to be as close as possible to the corals so that the Sea Dragon Universal Flash can reach the subject and return to the camera. Red light can only travel up to five meters underwater – so if you are too far from the subject, your image will lack natural color. The SeaLife 0.5x Wide Angle Dome Lens is very important for images like this as it shortens the distance to the subject.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon Flash, 0.5x Wide Angle Dome Lens
Settings: ISO 125, f/4, 1/125s
Painted Frogfish
Male Atoll, Maldives
Not only wide-angle scenes can be taken with the SeaLife 0.5x Wide Angle Dome lens, but also close-focus wide-angle shots like with this nicely sitting Painted Frogfish in a blue sponge.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon Flash, 0.5x Wide Angle Dome Lens
Settings: ISO 200, f/7.1, 1/200s
Nudibranch
Alam Batu, Indonesia
When photographing small subjects like this beautiful Bali Solar Powered nudibranch (Phyllodesmium iriomotense), try to get your perspective as low as possible. Then with a spot light or torch (In this case the spot feature on the Sea Dragon 2100 Dual Beam) also very low to the ground and facing up slightly, the light will touch the animal and create a beautiful lighting effect.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon 2100 Dual Beam, DC-Series Super Macro Lens
Settings: ISO 125, f/4, 1/125s
Tiny Shrimp
Alam Batu, Indonesia
Even though you can get really close with the Super Macro Lens, the quality of the DC2000 is good enough to crop the image a little bit as well to make the smaller creatures appear larger.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon Flash, DC-Series Super Macro Lens
Settings: ISO 200, f/4, 1/100s
Lionfish
Kubu, Indonesia
When taking underwater images like this, make sure that the subject floats over a nice background and that you are photographing slightly upwards to get as much blue water in the shot as possible.The diver in the background holding a dive torch makes the image perfect.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon Flash, 0.5x Wide Angle Dome Lens
Settings: ISO 200, f/4, 1/100s
Reef Scene
Rangiroa, French Polynesia
Photographing fish underwater is not always easy, as they are easily scared and just turn their back to the camera. The trick is to stay calm, approach very slowly and wait for the fish to return to the same place and get used to the diver and the camera. Do a test shot to get light and background blue correct, press the shutter half to focus and wait for a good moment and a nice formation for the actual photo. Try it again and again if it doesn’t work out the first time.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon Flash, 0.5x Wide Angle Dome Lens
Settings: ISO 200, f/7.1, 1/200s
Wolffish
Akureyri, Iceland
Taking images in cold water like Iceland isn’t always easy because most cameras can’t be controlled easily with gloves. Luckily the SeaLife DC2000 has large buttons and controls so even in these harsh conditions, you are in full control over the camera, especially in situations like this when a Wolffish comes really close.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon Flash, 0.5x Wide Angle Dome Lens
Settings: ISO 125, f/4, 1/125s
Sea Turtle
Kubu, Indonesia
When you approach the animals very slowly they will remain calm and stay put to photograph. In a situation like this you might still only have two to three photos to take before the animal disappears. So it’s recommended to have the settings of your camera set correctly and tested before you approach the animal. Take your test shots on an inanimate object with same or similar lighting conditions.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon Flash, 0.5x Wide Angle Dome Lens
Settings: ISO 200, f/4.5, 1/250s
Scorpionfish
Malapascua, Philippines
Slow or non-moving sea creatures are predestined to test your lightning skills and experiment with your strobe. With light angle and intensity you can illuminate the parts of an image that are interesting and beautiful, like this Scorpionfish, and eliminate the unattractive background from the image.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon 2100 Dual Beam’s Spot Function
Settings: ISO 120, f/11, 1/100s
Reef Scene
Bali, Indonesia
If you’re shooting a reef-scape, waiting for the right moment is important in composing a good photo. Usually fish disappear from the reef when divers are close, but they’ll come back in little time if you wait and stay calm. When a fish swims into the image, be ready and press the shutter button.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon Flash, 0.5x Wide Angle Dome Lens
Settings: ISO 125, f/2.5, 1/125s
Nudibranch
Bali, Indonesia
When you shoot in Super Macro Auto-Focus mode and set your camera to capture JPG + RAW images, you will have the original image in RAW format with the ability to crop and edit it to your liking using popular image editing software such as Adobe Lightroom or Photoshop.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon 2100 Dual Beam, DC-Series Super Macro Lens
Settings: ISO 125, f/8, 1/50s
Seahorse
Kubu, Indonesia
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon 2100 Dual Beam, DC-Series Super Macro Lens
Settings: ISO 125, f/2.8, 1/320s
Sea Plane
Palau
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon Flash, 0.5x Wide Angle Dome Lens
Settings: ISO 125, f/2.5, 1/320s
Palau
Palau
Bali, Indonesia
Super Macro mode gives you the opportunity to get really close to the animals and to be able to see all of their tiny details. The quality of the DC2000 is good enough to crop the image afterwards to even get closer to the subject.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon 2100 Dual Beam, Super Macro Lens
Settings: ISO 125, f/5, 1/250s
Malapascua, Philippines
Having clean images with nothing that distracts from the main subject is important in wildlife photography. In this case this giant Frogfish was sitting under a rock with a nasty background behind it. To be able to mask the Frogfish and to get a clean, black background I used the spot function of the Sea Dragon 2100 Dual Beam Light so that the light only hits the fish and not the background.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, SeaLife Sea Dragon 2100 Dual Beam
Settings: ISO 125, f/9, 1/200s
Rangiroa, French Polynesia
Trying to shoot a simply composed image with shapes and objects usually results in a pleasing result for the viewer, like this image with a spherical coral head and two little fish above it.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon Flash, 0.75x Wide Angle Conversion Lens
Settings: ISO 125, f/1.8, 1/200s
Palau
If you get to photograph wrecks try to work with diagonals to make the wreck fit in the image nicely. You can also just work with sunlight, but always go with the light (sun in the back) to make the colors come out. The shallower, the better, for ambient light shots.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon Flash, 0.75x Wide Angle Conversion Lens
Settings: 125, f/2.5, 1/320s
Bali Indonesia
Sharm El-Sheikh, Egypt
Sharm El-Sheikh, Egypt
Sharm El-Sheikh, Egypt
Bali, Indonesia
Hurghada, Egypt
Bali, Indonesia
Adding the sun into your image is a desirable effect. The problem is that the large sunburst can white out your shot. To avoid this, increase the DC2000 shutter speed to 1/1250s. The Sea Dragon Universal Flash can synchronize at that speed and get good light and color into the foreground.
Kubu, Indonesia
Palau
Brother Islands, Egypt
Shaab Claudia, Fury Shoals, Egypt
Marsa Alam, Egypt
Brother Island, Egypt
Brother Island, Egypt
Tasiilaq, Greenland
On subjects where you have no scale or dimension, I like to have a diver in the image to get the size relationship. The DC2000 also works perfectly in these icy conditions in sub-freezing water temperatures.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon Universal Flash, SeaLife 0.5x Dome Lens
Settings: ISO 125, f/2.0, 1/125s
Lembeh Strait, North Sulawesi, Indonesia
With a low f-stop, or open aperture, the background becomes unfocused. Use this technique to create a nice bokeh (or special “blurred” background), which adds to the overall photo composition.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon 4500, Super Macro Lens
Settings: 1/640s, f/1.8, ISO 125
Woodhouse Reef, Strait of Tiran, Sharm el-Sheikh, Egypt
Photographing reefs is almost never easy because most of the time, there’s an ugly rock or a section which is not covered with coral in the frame. Try to search and find a spot where the frame is packed with life and nothing unattractive is inside the image.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon Universal Flash, SeaLife 0.5x Dome Lens
Settings: ISO 125, f/4, 1/400s
Lembeh Strait, North Sulawesi, Indonesia
Taking images from the side and making eye contact with the animal is much better than taking a shot from the top looking down. Diagonal views help to get more life into the image.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon 4500, Super Macro Lens
Settings: 1/640s, f/13.2, ISO 125
Banda Neira, Indonesia
It’s always nice to place a model around sea fans so the viewer sees an additional element in the image. Make sure that the model holds a dive light and get the legs straight and together so the scene looks serene and natural.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon Universal Flash, SeaLife 0.5x Dome Lens
Settings: ISO 125, f/2.2, 1/200s
Tasiilaq, Greenland
With icebergs, adding a diver like this freediver is important for creating scale and reference, which benefits the image. And unlike a reef, it’s quite alright to touch the ice.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon Universal Flash, SeaLife 0.5x Dome Lens
Settings: ISO 125, f/2.0, 1/125s
Banda Neira, Indonesia
Closed anemones are an ideal subject for photography as clownfish tend to stay inside the anemone and won’t swim away. Make sure to capture them in the right moment when they are looking towards the camera.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon 3000 Auto
Settings: ISO 125, f/4.5, 1/320s
Bali, Indonesia
Besides being one of the highest rated dive lights, you can also take pictures with the Sea Dragon Mini 900! Its narrow beam is ideal to point at an animal like this Mantis Shrimp, yet avoids showing the potentially nasty background by just focusing on the animal itself. SeaLife offers their SL98104 YS adapter for this light so you can mount it to your camera or arm system.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, SeaLife Sea Dragon Mini 900
Settings: ISO 125, f/3.5, 1/250s
Bali, Indonesia
Mimic octopuses are never easy to spot, or to photograph, as they frequently move around once they’re out of their hole. Wait until the octopus rests for a moment before taking your pictures. Also, make sure you don’t harass the animal in any way.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon 3000 Auto
Settings: ISO 125, f/4, 1/500
Bali, Indonesia
If you can’t find the right background while photographing coral crabs, try changing your approach by shooting sideways or upside down to get the best color of the coral and the crab into the image.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon 3000 Auto, Super Macro Lens
Settings: ISO 125, f/4, 1/200
Port Ghalib, El Sheik Malik, Egypt
When shooting rare or shy animals, it may be that you only have one chance to get the shot, so you need to have the camera settings right beforehand. To make sure to have the correct settings, take a test shot on your dive buddy.
Equipment:SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon Flash, 0.5x Dome Lens
Settings: 1/500s, f/4, ISO 125
Bluff Point, Island of Gubal, Egypt, Red Sea
Capturing the behavior of an animal will result in a much stronger image than just a passing ID shot. Use patience at cleaning stations with as little movement as possible and you’ll get much better interactions with images full of life.
Equipment:SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon Flash, 0.5x Dome Lens
Settings: 1/250s, f/4, ISO 125
Bali, Indonesia
Portrait shots, especially of morays, work very well if you have eye contact with the animal. This can be only one eye from the side, but even better on both eyes from the very front. It’s absolutely important that in all perspectives that the focus is centered on the eyes and not somewhere else.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, SeaLife Sea Dragon Mini 900
Settings: ISO 125, f/3.5, 1/250s
Bali, Indonesia
Lionfish usually hide underneath corals or rocks during the day to rest before they hunt at night. They can also be active during the day and swim around reefs. Since Lionfish don’t frighten as easily as other reef fish, they make a good photo subject. Try to get a perspective as low as possible to frame the fish completely in front of blue water to get a nice picture.
Equipment:SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon Flash, 0.5x Dome Lens
Settings: 1/250s, f/4, ISO 125
Bali, Indonesia
There are various methods to compose an image, the most common are a center or diagonal position. What always works as well is to put the subject into the “golden ratio”, which is about one third of the image, either from the left like these Juvenile Batfish; or right, or from the top or bottom.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon Flash
Settings: ISO 125, f/2.5, 1/250s
Bali, Indonesia
When you’re in the Macro Focus mode of the DC2000, combined with the DC Super Macro Lens, maximum magnification of the subject is possible. Look for small animals sitting on whip coral or similar corals, frame them against a blue water background for best effect.
Equipment:SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon Flash, Super Macro Lens
Settings: 1/250s, f/4, ISO 125
Bali, Indonesia
Since they’re not moving, shooting coral fans is a good way to test and check your settings. Then wait calmly in front of the coral fan, with the correct settings, until the fish appear and swim around in front of it. That’s the right moment to take the image.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon Flash, 0.5x Dome Lens
Settings: ISO 125, f/2.5, 1/400s
Banda Neira, Indonesia
You don’t always need to take a super-macro image to show an animal in its full detail. Back up a little and show a wider perspective to demonstrate how and where the subject lives.
Equipment:SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon Flash, 0.5x Dome Lens
Settings: 1/160s, f/1.8, ISO125
Bali, Indonesia
The 0.5x Wide Angle Dome Lens isn’t just good for wide angle photography. You can also get very close to subjects like this Rhinopias Scorpionfish while using the Macro-AF mode. The diffuser on the Sea Dragon Universal Flash gives you a nice soft light, even on close-up subjects, but you’ll need to power the strobe down.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon Flash, 0.5x Dome Lens
Settings: 1/100s, f/5, ISO125
Bali, Indonesia
If you want to create a black background around your image and only illuminate the subject, do it with a tight, narrow spot beam like the Sea Dragon Mini 900S. You’ll need to increase your shutter speed to compensate for the bright center, leaving the background dark.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, SeaLife Sea Dragon Mini 900S
Settings: ISO 125, f/3.5, 1/1600s
Umm Gamar, Hurghada, Egypt
If you find a small creature, like this Goby, hiding in rocks or corals, remain calm and still so they feel safe to emerge from their hole.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon Flash, 0.5x Dome Lens
Settings: 1/640s, f/5, ISO 125
Brother Islands, Egypt
For fast moving subjects like sharks, the Auto Focus setting may not be the easiest way to capture a good image. Use the focus lock by focusing on your fins or your shooting distance and lock it in the menu of the camera. Then wait until the shark comes in at the right distance. Once set, the DC2000 allows you to easily lock and unlock the AF.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon Flash, 0.5x Dome Lens
Settings: 1/640s, f/3.2, ISO 125
Sharm El Sheik, Egypt
Shooting reefs like this one at Sharm El Sheik, Egypt with your wide angle lens is much nicer if you have plenty of fish around the corals like these beautiful Anthias. Wait until all the fish swim together in one direction before you take the image.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon Flash, 0.5x Dome Lens
Settings: 1/200s, f/3.2, ISO 125
Umm Gamar, Hurghada, Egypt
Portraits of reef fish, like this Arabian Angelfish, are best taken without any additional lens in front of the DC2000 because the wide angle would be too wide and the subject is too far for a macro or close-up lens. The focal length of the DC2000 is perfect for these types of shots.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon Flash
Settings: 1/1600s, f/2.2, ISO125
Brother Islands, Egypt
The Oceanic Whitetip Shark is a very curious shark and comes close to divers. Be patient with this type of shark and wait until it is right in front of the camera to get some nice light of the strobe onto the shark. With the shutter speed you can control the amount of light in the background.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon Flash, 0.5x Dome Lens
Settings: 1/500s, f/3.2, ISO125
Umm Gamar, Hurghada, Egypt
Coral reefs are perfect to test your camera and settings. Find a nice spot and your time to set the camera to manual mode so that you can easily test the settings. The aperture controls the amount of strobe light and with the shutter speed you can set the degree of blue of the background.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon Flash, 0.5x Dome Lens
Settings:1/640s, f/3.5, ISO 125
Beacon Rock, Sharm el Sheik, Egypt
Doing split shots in open water is never easy with compact cameras, but not impossible. On the contrary, with a little practice you’ll be able to get some good photos. First and most important: The bigger the dome lens, the easier are the split shots. The best option is to use the 0.5x Wide Angle Dome lens which has the widest space for the water surface. Focus underwater, hold the trigger and shoot in the right moment when the wave splits. Shoot a good number of images, so you have a selection of shots to choose from.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon Flash, 0.5x Dome Lens
Settings: 1/200s, f/4, ISO 400
Giannis D wreck, Hurghada, Egypt
Even inside a wreck, it’s good to catch schooling fish in a nice formation. Be patient and wait a little bit until the fish swim the right way. Also, try to shoot against an exit to catch a little bit of blue and some ambient light in the background.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon Flash, 0.5x Dome Lens
Settings: 1/125, f/4, ISO 400
Giftun Island, Hurghada, Egypt
When photographing marine life, especially schools of fish, it’s always nice to have a perspective as low as possible to frame the fish slightly upward in front of blue water. But mind your buoyancy and fins, no photo is worth harming the marine environment.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon Flash, 0.5x Dome Lens
Settings:1/1250, f/2.2, ISO 125
Chrisoula K. Wreck, Abu Nuhas, Hurghada, Egypt
Composition is very important in underwater photography. If you’re not sure how to compose an image, there are a few rules which you can apply to an image such as the golden ratio, contrasts or diagonal lines, like in the image of the wreck.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, 0.5x Dome Lens
Settings: 1/50, f/1.8, ISO 400
Chrisoula K. Wreck, Abu Nuhas, Hurghada, Egypt
SeaLife’s 0.5x Wide Angle Lens is perfect for photographing wrecks from the outside. Try to find a perspective where the wreck fills the image but you’re not too far away from it. Shooting at the stern adds features like the propeller or rudder into your image; you may also illuminate these features by placing a light near them, such as the Sea Dragon 3000F.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, 0.5x Dome Lens
Settings: 1/200s, f/2.8, ISO 400
Hurghada, Egypt
Getting a wider angle, with the SeaLife 0.5x dome lens or similar lens, not only gives you a wider perspective but also lets you get closer to the subject such as this example. Getting closer and wider will also brighten up the incoming light and you’ll get more colors back to the camera.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon Flash, 0.5x Dome Lens
Settings: 1/320s, f/2.0, ISO125
Anilao, Philippines
A “unicorn” of blackwater dives, a Paper Nautilus, is not easy to find. So make sure to have everything right and in focus when you find one of these rare critters. Using a Sea Dragon 3000 helps greatly to search and focus on point.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon 3000F Auto, DC-Series Super Macro Lens
Settings: 1/400, f/3.2, ISO 125
Anilao, Phillippines
When photographing with an open aperture to get a sharp subject and soft background, you’ll certainly get a lot of light in the image. Such as the case here with an f/1.8. But you still need a small light, like the Sea Dragon Mini 900S to get color into the subject. Then choose a shutter speed to balance both the artificial and ambient light in your image.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon Mini 900S, DC-Series Super Macro Lens
Settings: 1/800, f/1.8, ISO 125
Anilao, Philippines
Small dive lights, like the Sea Dragon Mini 900 or the Sea Dragon Mini 1300, are ideal to lighten a subject in different ways, both from front and behind. Animals with transparent fins or structures, like this Rhinopias, are very good subjects to try that with. Center the light behind the subject. Have some light from the front towards the eye so that the viewer can recognize the subject.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon Mini 900S, DC-Series Super Macro Lens
Settings: 1/640, f/3.2, ISO 125
Anilao, Phillippines
Clownfish are always a good subject to photograph, but they are not easy to capture. Make sure you press the shutter button at the right moment to catch a nice pose. The longer you stay put, the better your chances are to get a good image. The Sea Dragon 3000F provides enough light to keep the shutter speed high to freeze the action of these fast little fishes.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon 3000F Auto, DC-Series Super Macro Lens
Settings: 1/800, f/1.8, ISO 125
Anilao, Philippines
During blackwater dives, the Sea Dragon 1300 is the perfect light to search for subjects like this rare Larval Wonderpus Octopus. But the light is also good to photograph an image. In this shot I held the camera in one hand and centered the light beam on the subject with my other hand.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon Mini 1300S, DC-Series Super Macro Lens
Settings: 1/640, f/2.8, ISO 125
Anilao, Phillippines
One of the rarest species in blackwater diving: a Male Blanket Octopus. This Octopus features vibrant colors and has some very graceful movements. Make sure to adjust the light angle or reduce light output of your Sea Dragon 3000F light for close range imaging on this small creature.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon 3000F Auto, DC-Series Super Macro Lens
Settings: 1/200s, f/2.8, ISO 125
Lembeh Strait, North Sulawesi, Indonesia
Giant Frogfish perfectly camouflage themselves when hunting and rarely move. This is a perfect opportunity to gently get close to the fish to photograph it. When using the 0.5x Wide Angle Lens, the distance is close enough so that the light of the Sea Dragon 3000F shines perfectly on the entire subject and surroundings.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon 3000F Auto, DC-Series Wide Angle Lens
Settings:ISO 125, f/3.5, 1/125s
Beacon Rock, Sharm el Sheik, Egypt
Using diagonal lines in an image is an important part of composing a good picture. The integration of natural habitat and a blue background are the finishing touch. With the Sea Dragon universal strobe, you can easily freeze the action of moving animals like the Lionfish.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon Universal Flash
Settings: 1/250s, f/4, ISO 125
Bali, Indonesia
Sea Needles are a difficult but very rewarding subject to photograph; if you can get the focus right, which should center on the eyes. Additionally a touch of light with a tight torch like the Sea Dragon Mini 900S is a good idea and will add a spot of brilliant color.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon Mini 900S, DC-Series Super Macro Lens
Settings: 1/1000s, f/1.8, ISO 125
Bali, Indonesia
Wonderpus Octopus live in the sand, and rarely come out so it’s always good to have your camera set and ready to be able to photograph it immediately, and not waste time playing with the settings on your camera. A small light, like the Sea Dragon Mini 900 or 1300, will help to highlight the subject area in the sand.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon Mini 900S, DC-Series Super Macro Lens
Settings: 1/250s, f/4, ISO 125
Lembeh Strait, Indonesia
You can achieve a black background in macro photography with a fast shutter speed and tight aperture, even in daylight. These settings will bring out the colors and structure of the animals very well, like these Ghost Pipefish. The Sea Dragon 5000F Auto has enough power to illuminate them brilliantly and works marvelously with a smaller aperture and fast shutter speed.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon 5000F Auto, DC-Series Super Macro Lens
Settings: 1/320s, f/5.6, ISO 125
Lembeh Strait, Indonesia
Safety stops at jetties are a perfect opportunity to photograph some Gorgonian Sea Fans that usually grow on the pilings. You’ll need a perspective that nicely balances the sea fan, as well as the blue water in the background. The Sea Dragon Universal Flash with its diffuser is the perfect way to light the foreground evenly in very bright conditions.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon Universal Flash
Settings: 1/160s, f/1.8, ISO 125
Umm Gamar, Hurghada, Egypt
The advantage of underwater photo or video LED lights instead of a strobe is that you can see the result in the back of the screen as you’re composing the image. The advantage of a strobe is that it’s much more powerful and can freeze the action, especially for fast moving subjects, but you only can see the results after the shot.
Equipment: SeaLife DC2000, Sea Dragon 3000F Auto, 0.5x Wide Angle Dome Lens
Settings: 1/640s, f/5.6, ISO 125